To Walk is to Jalan Jalan

Nobody walks in Bali. Except for the tourists. The Balinese speed around on motorbikes and jeeps, driving on the left side of the road, and somehow manage to not hit one another or the chickens and dogs that casually walk across the village superhighways. But walking is the only way to experience the sights and sounds - the rice paddies, the shops, the constant "Taxi? Transport?" I walk as much as I can.

Ubud has something resembling a sidewalk, but it is in disrepair and there are treacherous gaps that reveal a small canal system running underneath. It is important to always watch where the feet are - but this can be a challenge when shop owners are constantly shouting to you "yes, you look good in new shirt. maybe just looking, yes. come in, just looking."

There is a particular textile shop that I pass every day when I walk back to the hotel from gamelan practice. I made the mistake of responding to the woman shop-keeper's calls with "nanti" which means "later." Shop keepers will remember 100% of every detail of every encounter you've ever had with them. The next day I walked by and this time said in english "maybe later." "Maybe NOW, SIR" she shot back. It was something of a polite but somewhat threatening invite, which is not unusual when passing by the markets or shops. Once I enter a shop, it is important to be careful where my eyes are focused since whatever was in that general direction will suddenly leap off the wall and be wrapped around my body followed by a mirror held in my face. I learned early on to enjoy this situation - and it really is pretty funny, especially bargaining. Most of the Balinese I have met have a very difficult time lying - so their first asking price (usually twice what it is worth)is usually said coyly. At first it was difficult for me to offer half of what their price was, but I realized that this is really the only way it works. Bargaining is best done while laughing - the shop keeper laughs too and the tension is broken. This is the best way to arrive at a fair price - an honest face is much easier to recognize after a laugh. In the end - maybe I saved $5.